Day 54 Ticonderoga to Cornwall, VT

VERMONT!

We (George & I) had a pleasant ride to the fort at Crown Point, skirting a portion of the east end of the Adirondacks and riding through pretty farmland. Those aren’t Midwest hills.

The Crown Point fort’s strategic location blocked the movement of any shipping north or south on Lake Champlain.  The French built it to protect from British invasion from the south. The fort was the site of many battles, and was a key staging ground, in the French and Indian War and later in the Revolution.

Crown Point Fort

However, looming large in the background of the picture below, look carefully,

is the Crown Point Bridge to Vermont! 

After crossing the bridge the welcome sign!

Very quickly the Vermont hills hit us; I had not used my granny gear for weeks until yesterday, and with repeat use today. As a friend said “ I'm sure on your trip that you've seen some challenging roads, but in Vermont all roads are challenging.” So I am finding.

However, the beautiful, bucolic countryside is spell binding. Note the hills in the distance - there just is no easy way over them.

A “bit” of climbing and we found ourselves at Middlebury College and having lunch in town. Middlebury is, as you might imagine, a picturesque Vermont town with a creek through the middle of it.

After lunch, onto my cousin’s, Lisa, B&B (Cornwall Orchards) in Cornwall, Vermont. This is a wonderful spot, come and visit!  We had a great dinner, 6 of us, and caught up on many old times, and new.

The ride has been long, and the mountains big, but here I am, in New England. I left Seattle two months ago today, June 1. That date seems like ages ago. Many miles have gone by, some hard mentally, some hard physically but all an unforgettable experience.

By the numbers:
Dist.  37.6 miles
Elev Gain 2,396 ft
Elev Loss 2,175 ft
Moving Time 3:36

Total Dist  3,544 miles
Estimated Dist Remaining 221 miles

Day 53 Lake George to Ticonderoga, NY

 FT TICONDEROGA

The rain clouds parted, the sun came out and we had a nice walk around town after breakfast. Departed the pleasant resort town of Lake George around 9.

The scenery along the ride was nice, with some peep hole views of the lake, but the ride itself not so good as the shoulder was narrow, the road crowded and the NY drivers very impatient. They much prefer to pass us, even if a car is coming the other way, than wait 5-10 seconds until the oncoming lane is clear. The result, minimal clearance between the passenger mirror and us. I am sure they did not hear the insults I hurled at them. Eventually the traffic thinned and the shoulder got a bit better.

We had a worthy climb (11%) for about 1.5 miles, followed by 5% for another 1.5 miles, probably the steepest significant climb since Montana. I would like to say the view at the top was incredible, but we were in the woods. 

We took a slight diversion off the main road and came across a pretty swank summer community. The YMCA complex in the pics below.

The forecast was for clear skies. You may notice the clouds. Shortly after these pictures the rain hit. We cycled most of the last hour or so in pouring rain with a bit of hail. My Dad would have said this was just a “clearing shower”. After the 3rd clearing shower it finally stopped raining.

We arrived at the hotel about 1 PM, unloaded our bags and headed for Ft. Ticonderoga. The fort was built by the French in the French & Indian war to protect Quebec from British Invasion from the south. The fort was located to stop the British as they portaged from Lake George to the west. The bloodiest conflict until the Civil War occurred here during this war with 2,000 people dying in one day.  

The aerial picture below shows the northern portion of Lake George to the left, while Fort Ticonderoga overlooks the southern portions Lake Champlain. The portage route is to the west of the fort.

Later, the fort was taken by the British, the French blew up much of the fort when they vacated. The Americans Ethan Allen & Benedict Arnold and the Green Mountain Boys captured it early in the revolution. In the following winter Henry Knox took the cannons and ammunition to Boston through snow and ice to help George Washington in the siege of Boston. 

The Fort changed hands a few times between the Brits and US during the Revolution and the War of 1812.  It then fell into disrepair and was pilfered for its stones. In the early 1900s it was bought by a private investor and rehab started, which continues to this day.

Looking SSE from Ft Ti

The Courtyard

Another view south

Inner walls and looking NNW

Notables who visited the Fort

All in all it was an enjoyable afternoon under sunny skies seeing the fort and the associated museum within it.

After the fort, into town for dinner and then back to the hotel. Riding my bike to the fort into town and then back to the hotel, without any bags, was quite nice - a lot less weight.

By the numbers:
Dist 38.7 miles
Elev Gain 2,795 ft
Elev Loss 2,887 ft
Moving Time 3:30

Total Dist. 3,506 miles
Dist Remaining 259 miles

Day 52. Amsterdam to Lake George, NY

 THE HUDSON, RAIN

We started on the early side, (7:45) for us, as rain was predicted later in the afternoon. Steep descent (10%) into Amsterdam (our hotel was south of the river) and a steep ascent out (12%) followed by a long easy climb for a few miles and then a 10 mile run down at 1 to 2%. Just a slight change in grade makes a huge difference; on our long downhill we were doing a steady 16 - 18 mph with little effort.

We arrived in Saratoga Springs about 10:45 and after wandering around and wasting a bit of time had a light second breakfast at Starbucks. The good local coffee shops/bakeries had long lines. Saratoga is a horse racing mecca. From late June through Labor Day horse races occur almost daily. I expect a lot of money changes hands. The town was packed today and exudes wealth. George and I were here in late October a few years ago with the Ancient Mariners RC, our rowing club in Seattle, for the Head of the Fish Regatta. Main Street was much less crowded then. (This pic does not capture the crowds well.)

Main St

Hotel on Main St

Eventually off again, hoping to beat the rain. Shortly what should appear in Glens Falls but the Hudson River! Sorry about the two amigos getting in the way of the river. (Neither George nor I have met a camera that we can smile for, just ask Nancy & Ellen!)

Shortly after this pic the rain hit. We cycled the last 10 miles or so in a good solid rain. However, we were on bike trail almost all the way from Saratoga to Lake George and it was not cold so the rain ride was not bad.

We arrived at Lake George, in Warren County, wet but happy to be here. 

We wanted to scout out the town a bit at supper, but it was raining hard. After a brief walking perusal of options we ended up at a Mediterranean restaurant which was quite good. While there I received a couple of texts asking what is going on with my Garmin tracker, the blue dot tracks my progress across the map, or not!

I have named the RidewithGPS voice Alice and my Garmin, Ralph. They had another hissy fit this morning and would not talk.  Ralph’s tracking was probably a result of him having a temper tantrum. Maybe Alice & Ralph will have a better day tomorrow, but based upon the the last 8 weeks I am not particularly encouraged.

By the numbers:
Dist - 60.3 miles
Elev Gain - 2,350 ft
Elev Loss - 2,300 ft
Moving Time 5:03

Total to Date 3,467  miles
Remaining 298 miles

Day 51. Utica to Amsterdam, NY

 LOCK 17

Nice ride today, mostly on dedicated bike trail, and most of that was paved. 

The scenery alternated from farms, to small City and everything in between.  The  bike trail, “Empire State Trail” as in prior days, passed through woodlands and open fields, generally closely following the Canal, but not always. The Empire State Trail generally, but not always, follows the Erie Canal Trailway. One is marked on the maps (Erie) the other has signage. One would think that they would be in alignment, but no.

The highlight of the day was a stop at Lock 17. When built in 1917 it had the largest vertical lift in the world, 40.5 ft.  It replaced 4 smaller locks that were a part of the original canal. The two pics below, were taken from the same place and show the water level on either side of the downstream lock gate.

There was no one there when we arrived except the lock operator. He was quite friendly, gave us a tour and showed how the controls work. He had to drain the lock when we were there to let a boat headed upstream pass through the locks. Two 6’ x 9’ tunnels are used to pass water to the locks and two more to drain it

Outflow from the tunnels draining the lock

Onward we went and shortly came to the Herkimer House. It was built in 1764 by General Herkimer after the French Indian War. The General was key in the defense of Fort Stanwix (yesterday’s blog) against the British in the Revolutionary War. The house fell into disrepair in the 1800 and early 1900s. It is now owned by the State of NY.  Link below.

Herkimer Home

We encountered the Empire State Ride today, 222 entrants riding from Staten Island to Buffalo - a totally supported ride and fund raiser for Cancer research. The trail got a bit crowded at times.

Eventually we arrived in Amsterdam. We wandered around town and finally found a fried chicken joint. We did takeout and walked down to the riverfront park to watch the water ski show, performers are from local high schools. George thought the fried chicken sauce had a hint of black cottonwood infused with oak; I thought it had a hint maple with a slight fragrance of pine. What a deal $9.85 each!

The water ski pyramid

Sunset over the Mohawk River on our walk back to the hotel

By the numbers:
Dist 66.6 miles
Elev Gain 855 ft
Elev Loss 799 ft
Moving Time 5:29

Total Dist. 3,407 miles
Dist Remaining 358 miles

Day 50. Syracuse to Utica, NY

 MEMORY LANE, THUNDERSTORMS AND FT. STANWIX 

We started off the day a bit early as it was to be a longish day. First stop, the Syracuse University Rowing Boathouse and scene of the IRAs (Intercollegiate Rowing Assoc) championships. For years the IRAs were held on Lake Onondaga, George competed in them, 50 years ago. Warren came here junior year to row against Syracuse, (44 yrs ago) but in warmups blew out his back so did not race.  For both of us it was a ride down Memory Lane. The Syracuse boathouse is located at the north end of Lake Onondaga, near the current Erie Canal.

After this brief stop we pushed on down the lake through Syracuse and onto the Erie Canal trail. The Erie Canal bike trail is south of the lake through Syracuse, the working canal is north of the lake. Like yesterday it was a mostly gravel trail, some muddy spots, some pavement and some road. Generally a pleasant ride. 

My history of the Erie Canal is sketchy at best. The sign post below is helpful. The first canal completed 1825 (see yesterday) was  later enlarged and then enlarged again. Sometimes the upgrade was built within the location of the existing canal, sometimes moved. The Erie Canal bike trail follows all 3 at various times.

We stopped in Canastota for lunch, but did not tarry as thunderstorms were approaching. They caught us in Rome.  We hung out in a local mini-mart for about 45 minutes until the storm passed.

After the rains we stopped at Ft. Stanwix, originally built in 1758, and later enlarged after the Revolutionary War. Notes: 1) consumption (tuberculosis) was a major disease so soldiers all slept sitting up to help with breathing. The other major disease - scurvy  2) Flintlock pieces were made in different locations, locks in France, barrel in France generally, and stock in the colonies. The gun was assembled at yet another location. If your new flintlock arrived with all the pieces it was yours “lock, stock, and barrel.

Soldiers quarters

Outside of fort

Fort courtyard

Fort Stanwix

Arrived Utica around 6. Mosquitoes were horrendous when we stopped. 

By the numbers:
Dist - 73.6 miles
Elev Gain - 1,091 ft
Elev Loss - 1,045 ft
Moving time 6:32

Total Distance 3,340 miles
Miles remaining 425 miles

Day 49. Newark to Syracuse, NY

 

RELAXING RIDING

Today was a relatively easy day mostly on the Erie Canal Trail with some road cycling interspersed,  The pics below give a general idea of the riding conditions. Riding along we have seen many birds including: goldfinches, cardinals, robins, redwing black birds, osprey, egrets, great blue heron, turkey vultures, sparrows, swallows and I heard a thrush. I am sure there are many more that I do not know. Much of the trail today was along a stretch of the older, and abandoned, canal. Thus, the trail was generally in the woods and quiet.  Sweet!!

Crossing the canal

A bit of history

The original canal was completed in 1825, the year before John Adams and Thomas Jefferson died. As you can see from above it has been enlarged since then.

By the numbers:
Dist - 56.3 miles
Elev Gain - 1,154 ft
Elev Loss - 1,195 ft
Moving time 5:00

Dist to go. 498 miles

Day 48 Brockport to Newark, NY

 ERIE CANAL, LOCAL FRIENDS, GEORGE EASTMAN MUSEUM

Easy ride today mostly on the Canal towpath. The trail is hard packed clay with light gravel on top, much like a clay tennis court.  

In the morning we came upon this park. I am not sure the genesis of its name but maybe it is better that way!

 

We came upon a few sign boards that were interesting, so passing them along.

We linked up with an old friend of Nancy’s for lunch, Joe, in Pittsford. He was a classmate in middle school. Unfortunately, his wife Patty could not make it. We had a very pleasant hour or so. Joe recommended that we go to the George Eastman Museum & House which we did. It was well worth the added 13 miles of riding and the 2 hr visit. Eastman developed the Kodak camera. Apparently he was very civic minded, and gave back much to the area. It sounds like history has looked upon him quite favorably. The ride to and from Pittsford to the museum included some beautiful neighborhoods, stately brick and Tudor mansions with copper beech, oak and maple trees.

The afternoon found us on a busy state route for about an hour. We finally bailed onto the trail again, more rural this time, and along the old canal.

Just before ending our ride this pretty little canal boat went by.

 Eventually we ended up in Newark and had dinner at a lovely restaurant overlooking the canal.

Sunset on our walk back to the hotel.

You new this was coming, link below:

Erie Canal Song

By the numbers:
Dist - 66.5 miles
Elev Gain - 1,417 ft
Elev Loss - 1,568 ft
Moving Time 5:50

Dist to go. 554. - I’ll bet it is at least an additional 100 more.