Day 47 Niagara to Brockport, NY

ERIE CANAL 

Today the 4th, and final, phase of this cross country odyssey, the Northeast, began today.

I have received comments about this being the last 500, finish strong, etc. Some background. Most of you know, some may not, that I rowed in high school and college and have been rowing as a “master” ever since. Elite rowing races, except the “Head” races in the fall, are 2,000 meters, generally discussed in 4 sections, first 500, second 500, etc…  Since I am breaking this trip into 4 sections it begs a brief comparison to a 2K race.

First 500 (Seattle to Bozeman) - start strong but don’t overdo, you have a long way to go. Your mates are with you. Trust in them and they will trust in you.

Second 500 (Bozeman to Minnesota) - you witness the abyss of pain opening and you know you are going to die, but you cannot give up as you are an integral part of the team. Your mates are depending upon you and you cannot let them down.

Third 500 (Minnesota to Niagara) - You survived to the halfway point and now you must bring it home. The pain is settling in, but you must keep the focus and forge on. 

Last 500 (Niagara to Browns Cove) - finish strong. Your brain is getting foggy and sheer exhaustion is setting in, but the thrill of the finish line keeps you going.  In this case no sprint needed, just keep the wheels turning, keep the pedals turning and keep the pedals below your butt.

2nd 500 - I will admit that my decision to seize the opportunity of this ride as a fund raiser did give me incentive to keep going. I needed every bit of incentive in the low period of North Dakota. So, if you are in a charitable & giving mood please donate to the Granite Falls Food Bank. Pledges are per mile of the trip completed.  They are good folk and provide a great local service. Links below.

http://granitefallscommunitycoalition.org

https://pledgeit.org/ride4granite

We left the Seneca Nation Hotel and Casino around 8:30. No craps, slots, etc for us.

The ride was through city neighborhoods generally thinning to suburbia and then farm land. There was not anything particularly notable, good solid Americana. More kudos for carrying the American Flag on the pole on my bike. Farm land was dairy, corn, soybeans, wheat, apples and grapes.

Around mile 25 we arrived in Lockport, for us the beginning of the Erie Canal Trail. There are two locks in series in Lockport. Water level drop about 70 - 80 ft.

After Lockport we had a pleasant ride on the Erie Canal Trail for about 45 miles. The trail is packed gravel and quite nice. No cars!!!! Our speed is reduced 1 - 2 mph being on gravel but otherwise no issues. The canal, today would have been a great place for a row, miles of flat protected water and no boats.

We met a guy heading west to Seattle. This is not his first cross country trip. He hopes to finish late-September. He is following Adventure Cycle’s Northern Tier route.

The miles ticked by listening to podcasts and music, talking to George and generally just enjoying a laid back day.  There was one place where the canal passed over a river, which was a bit of a surprise and quite interesting.

We arrived Brockport about 5:30.

By the numbers:
Dist - 65.5 miles
Elev Gain - 849 ft
Elev Loss - 709 ft
Moving Time 5:30
Miles to go - 621

Day 46. Evangola CG to Niagara Falls

NIAGARA FALLS AND A FRIEND 

Foiled again on an early start. All went well camping and I pulled out of the campground slightly before 7. But my iPhone and Garmin were having a hissy fit and would not talk to each other, there goes 30 min. Then being in the boonies another 1.5 miles out of the way for breakfast. Finally underway on the trail about 8:30.

The ride took me by some nice homes along the lake. I should have taken a pic or two, think big brick mansions with Lake Erie out their back patio.

Onward and in the distance the skyline of Buffalo.

It was a bit surreal for me. Many weeks ago when I started, it seemed like Niagara/Buffalo might as well been on the other side of the Universe! Certainly that was true west of North Dakota. I guess 3,078 miles is near the other side of the universe!

Moving on I finally got onto nice bike trails through most of Buffalo and Niagara, especially along the Niagara River.

One of the off trail diversions, construction, took me by a General Mills factory and a Gold Medal flour factory. I would have taken some pics, but the factories/mills were large brick buildings, and I was up close. not photogenic.

Shortly after, or was it before, I rode by an old Bethlehem steel plant. These markers, two of many, were out front.

 

Pressing on I came upon several graffiti/wall mural artists. I chatted to one of them for a bit. It takes about 5 days +/- to do one painting depending upon complexity. I like the one on the right best. How does she/he get the 3D effect when working so close?

A bit further on I came across this water pumping station. It is a bit bigger than anything I worked on.

Pressing on, I stumbled onto the Westside Rowing Club and chatted with the coach for a bit. They row in the canal (not Erie I don’t think) and the Niagara River? It is flowing quite fast. The canal is on the right, river to the left. There are locks to the north.

Finally I arrived at the hotel. GEORGE GREETED ME AT THE DOOR!!! Someone else to talk to besides my handlebars. 

Shower and a bite to eat and we went off to the Falls. Pretty amazing! A lot of water!

Eventually dinner at an Indian Restaurant. The food was a nice change from the four foods groups I have been sustained on: beer, ice cream, burgers and fries. To crown it off it was buffet - they lost money on me!

By the numbers:
Dist 58.6 miles
Elev Gain 1,300 ft
Elev Loss 1,465 ft
Moving Time 5:12

Total to Date
Distance 3,078.4 miles
Elev Gain 81,721 ft
Elev Loss 80,059 ft
Moving Time 246 hrs 15 min

I have been asked to do a mileage count down. I have an estimated total of 3,765 miles based on planned routes, mostly from before the trip began.

Estimated Miles to go 686.6.

Tomorrow is a lay day. Post again on Saturday. Stay well.

Final note: I have seen more (COVID) masks in the last 24-hrs than the rest of the trip combined.

Day 45 Erie, PA to Evangola SP, NY

 NEW YORK

Departed Erie about 9 after a 3 mile diversion for breakfast. It was a good though, eggs, sausage, hash browns and pancakes. Any one of these would have sufficed when I was strapped to my desk.

The ride today was fairly unremarkable. Generally I was on a two lane road with about a 4 ft shoulder, typically without any rumble strip separation. The riding was a bit sketchy, especially when the semis passed.  You have seen many pics of similar roads.

An adverse northerly, cross headwind, persisted in the morning but abated in the afternoon. Temps high 70s.

Views of Lake Erie were far and few between, generally obscured by houses and trees. After about 25 miles the sign below appeared.

East of Erie cornfields gave way to vineyards.  Roadside fruit and vegetable stands were around a bit but as I travelled east the population density went down and the stands went away.  I did get a few good views.

At about 3, I stopped in Dunkirk for lunch, breakfast had finally worn off. Nancy and I used to regularly split a pint of B&J, more recently we would split 1/2 a pint. This one didn’t stand a chance, I devoured it!

The dinky little plastic spoon they gave me was not up to the task so I got out the “silverware”.

  

My lunchtime view was quite nice.  

Plowing on I came upon this roadside view of some lakeside bluffs. 

Eventually I got to Evangola State Park about 6 with takeout supper in hand. Spent supper swatting flies - until I put bug juice on - and set up the tent (note rainfly). Now for walk and then bed.

Sunset over Lake Erie

By the numbers:
Dist - 73.5 miles
Elev Gain - 2,005 ft
Elev Loss - 2,181 ft
Moving Time 6:28

Day 44. Geneva SP, OH to Erie, PA

PENNSYLVANIA

I woke up at 5:30 to get an early start, didn’t happen. I did have a conversation with myself however - no one else to talk to.

Warren: do you remember when you lived in New England and there were beautiful nights with a heavy dew in the morning?

Me: yes

Warren: Don’t you think then that it might have been a good idea to use the rain fly for the tent.

Me: I was hoping to see the stars through the tent screening, but I fell asleep. Now I have a wet tent and a sodden sleeping bag. Numbskull!

Eventually I got underway. I rode quietly through the Park and down to the lake.

Sunrise over Lake Erie

Breakfast was at the doughnut shop in Geneva-on-the-Lake.  The town is very touristy, a main strip with all sorts of shops and rentals.  There is a new, sizable conference center in the town, Kent State Conference Center. “Kent State” got me thinking about the shooting at Kent State University in the late 60s, and hoping that we have improved as a nation. 

I pushed east through Ashtabula, very industrial. There was a large cargo ship and rail yard. Ore from Lake Superior on its way to Pittsburg or did that shipping stop 50 years ago?

On to Conneaut near the Pennsylvania state line. Conneaut does not seem to have faired as well as Ashtabula, perhaps because the port is smaller.  Second breakfast at the diner was good. 

There were signs of better times, and hard times now. Look closely at the state of the library.

Carnegie Library in Conneaut, OH

I was riding mostly RT 6 in Ohio. Typical view below. Generally not much shoulder, but it got better. Traffic was fairly light, so it worked out ok.

Not a section Road but not dissimilar

Shortly after Conneaut - PENNSYLVANIA!! Check off another state! I have not made it the Atlantic yet, but PA borders the Atlantic (sort of) so I am getting there.

I rode Rt 5 in PA. Similar to Ohio Rt 6 but a better shoulder. I am now in Erie PA. After getting to the hotel I unloaded the bike, setup the tent to dry and went exploring Presque Isle State Park on Lake Erie. It is much like the Dungeness spit at Sequim, but this is much bigger. Great birding and swimming (yes I took the plunge).

Winds - light westerly (tailwind) 

Temp - high about 80.

Now for dinner. Stay well my friends!

By the numbers:
Dist 62.3 miles 
Elev Gain 1,587 ft
Elev Loss 1,405 ft
Moving time 5:24

Day 43. Highland Hts to Geneva State Park

 GO JUMP IN A  LAKE

Yesterday’s layover was great! Highlights: 1) Spending time with Aaron & Donna - Aaron a friend from Seattle who moved to Cleveland in 1998. Donna, his wife, whom I had not met, 2) A massage - my first. I needed it! 3) The VanAken food court, including outdoor performances - of course followed by ice cream!

Thank you Aaron & Donna!

Today was an easy day, the intent to get some miles under my belt  to make the remaining trip to Niagara Falls a bit less arduous.

I left Aaron & Donna’s around 11. The route took me through the North Chagrin Nature Reservation, very beautiful. The Chagrin River was flowing full and muddy. There has been a lot of rain here.

After leaving the Nature area I entered suburbia. There was nothing that struck me as extreme one way or the other, just good solid Americana, notably devoid of political signs, fortunately.

I went through downtown Painesville and was struck by the juxtaposition of the architecture, court house, Methodist Church and a new office building.

A bit later I travelled through Perry. I stayed in Perrysburg a few nights ago, which is adjacent to Perrysville, and now Perry.

I assume the “Perrys” were named after Oliver Hazard Perry who won the Battle of Lake Erie against the British in the War of 1812. From Wikipedia - He is also known for his message to General William Henry Harrison which reads in part, "We have met the enemy and they are ours; ..."

Pushing on east, more suburbia. I had to stop for a rootbeer float!

This ranch style house caught my eye, not sure why. Maybe because it is not what I think of as a “Normal” ranch type house. Frank Lloyd Wright influence?

A short bit later and I came upon a park with lake access so I took the plunge into Lake Erie. It is so much warmer than Puget Sound or the Gulf of Maine!

A few miles later, with a big sub sandwich in hand I arrived at Geneva State Park around 5:30.

Note: by request I will start mileage countdown but not until I get to Niagara.

By the numbers:
Dist 44.4 miles
Elev Gain 1,115 ft
Elev Loss 1,359 ft
Moving Time 3:47

Day 42. Huron to Highland Heights, OH

 LAKE ERIE, CLEVELAND, HEADWINDS

I spent a very comfortable night with Lance and Pam at their home by the river. I woke to get an early start - hark - is that the pitter patter of falling rain? Yup, raining hard. So here is my dilemma, leave now and ride in the rain or wait a few hours for it to stop. But other considerations kick in, local flooding and arrival time. I decided to wait a bit and watch the forecast for both weather and river stage. Neither were looking particularly encouraging.

Finally around 9:30 with a break in the rain I left. The river was near bankfull.  Fortunately, there was no rain the rest of the day (for me), just heavy overcast. Note: I checked the river stage graph today and it looks like the river rose to 20.5 ft. I hope there was no flood damage.

The first part of my ride was on a quiet trail in the woods then on the roads to Huron. Lance & Pam recommended I stop at the “Donut Shop”. Good call!! Great folk, much like Fournil in Seattle, a bunch of kick-ass retired folk drinking coffee and solving the world’s problems. I could have spent the morning there.

From Huron to Cleveland I was on Adventure Cycle’s Northern Tier Route, Ohio Rt 6. Road signs designated it as a bike route and the North Coastal Trail. I thought at last, a bike friendly stretch of road - not! Parts of the ride were delightful, but most of it was on busy road with horrible pavement and limited to no shoulder. To add to the difficulty there was a 15 -20 mph cross headwind.  Views of Lake Erie were limited to park access points.

Ordinarily I would jump in the lake but not this day, too many whitecaps!

The headwind was as strong as any I have had this trip; grit your teeth, downshift, get into the drop handlebars and try to maintain 10 mph. It made for a long day.

Some of the suburbs west of Cleveland were beautiful, and with nice side roads and designated bike trails. Lakewood and Clifton Park appeared to be quite affluent with some spectacular homes.

Eventually I arrived in Cleveland and biked right through downtown. This certainly isn’t the prairies of North Dakota!

As I continued on I passed the (Case Western) University hospital complex. Nancy went to medical school at Case. I started climbing the hill behind the hospital (Murray Hill) and memory bells started to ring. Nancy would walk this route to school, with me when I was visiting, a walk down memory lane. Google Maps routed me this way, fortuitously. Finally, the apartment building we first lived in (1985).

Another 15 miles and I arrived at Aaron & Donna’s home around 6:15. Aaron is a friend from Seattle who moved here in 1998. Great to be here!

Sunday, is a lay day. I get back in the saddle Monday.

By the numbers:
Dist - 71.7 miles
Elev Gain - 1,801 ft
Elev Loss - 1,544 ft
Moving Time 6:44

Day 41 Perrysburg to Huron, OH

BIKE TRAILS 

Departed Bob & Colleen’s (Warm Showers) around 8. Almost immediately both RidewithGPS and Google Maps conspired to put me on a private dirt road. I managed to thwart their combined effort by doing an end run.

The day was overcast with some drizzle but mostly dry. SW breeze so I had a quartering tailwind, high temp around 80.  It was a good day for a bike ride.

Of note today: I crossed the westerly extension of the Mass Pike (I-90), not seen since Billings, MT.

The scenery today varied widely including soybeans, corn & cabbage, suburban residential, small town commercial, heavy industrial, large grain storage, an Amazon fulfillment center and a power plant. Soybeans were predominant, followed by corn. with cabbage a distant third. (If you need something to do count the number of “squares” vertically in the two nearest grain elevators. I think each square is 3’ x 3’. That should give you an idea of the height of these grain storage elevators.)

Amazon Fulfillment Center

The best part of the day was the North Coast Inland Trail, which I was on for close to 40 miles. 

This trail and yesterday’s Wabash-Cannonball Trail have made riding easy and enjoyable for the last two days. Flat, NO CARS, & good pavement = good riding, in my opinion.

I am now at another Warm Showers home in Huron. This is a very pleasant riverside community. The friendships run deep and the banter level is thus quite high - all good. Much discussion tonight about whether or not to move cars to higher ground as the river may flood. The consensus is likely it will not flood, but is it worth the risk to leave the cars???..

By the numbers:
Dist - 74.3 miles
Elev Gain - 974 ft
Elev Loss - 1,010 ft
Moving Time 6:05

Day 40 Camp Sack-In to Perrysburg, OH

OHIO

 A bit of a late start as I had to break camp, fold up the tent, etc. I was stalled a bit more as my Garmin was not talking to my phone. The Subway sub I bought yesterday was for breakfast as my kind camp neighbors asked me for dinner (read yesterday’s blog). Finally underway around 9.

Immediately I was on dirt roads, but it did not last long. Soon I was on paved lonely, quiet section roads. It is a bit like Groundhog Day with these section roads. There was a good SW breeze, however, so I was able to make good time. 

Soon I was in Ohio. I did not see any state line markers and I was on gravel so change in asphalt was no help. However I did see this sign before too long.

At an intersection a bit later I asked a maintenance worker if the road I was on continued to be paved to the east. He said “It is paved all the way to Toledo.” For me that was music to my ears -Toledo - I really am in Ohio! I am in good company loving Toledo, Klinger (MASH), Dan Poneman (my brother-in-law) and now me! Maybe I can go to Tony Pacos?

Later I stopped to ask a farmer for water as it was hot and humid. We got to chatting about the rain. He has received 9 inches of rain since July 1, while to the west is a dry oven. 

I tried to pickup the Wabash-Cannonball Trail but no luck; I am not riding it here.

Around noon feeling tired, I stopped under a tree at a cemetery and called Nancy. We chatted for awhile and then I moved on.  I found AC, food and water in Wauseon and had a second, and better, lunch.

Back on the road I decided to divert to the Cannonball Trail to see if was paved. Eureka, it is! They recently extended it, the maps need to be revised.

I rode this portion of the trail for about 20 miles. It was wonderful, even in the thunderstorm downpour which lasted about 1.5 hours. After winding through Maumee and Perrysburg I arrived at the Warm Showers home of Bob & Colleen, soaked and tired. I am staying in a cozy annex they have. Great folk, lots of laughs at dinner. They asked if it is hard to get going in the morning, if I want I can sleep in. I replied that I am not sure if I am channeling Forest Gump or Dori from Finding Nemo “Just keep swimming!” but I need to keep going.

By the numbers:
Dist - 72.5 miles
Elev Gain - 1,303 ft
Elev Loss - 1,634 ft
Moving time 5:42